New Jersey paving & masonry contractor
Honest advice on whether your driveway needs a repair, a resurface or a full replacement, and the crew to do whichever makes sense.
Three decades paving NJ properties
Fully licensed NJ contractor
Owner-led, hands-on projects
Written, no-obligation quotes
Overview
Quick answer
If your driveway has isolated cracks, a few potholes or faded color, a repair (crack filling, patching, sealcoating) is usually enough. If more than about a quarter of the surface is cracked like alligator skin, has sunken tracks, or holds water, the base has failed and the driveway should be replaced. Old Irish Paving & Masonry inspects for free and recommends the most cost-effective fix.
Not every tired driveway needs to be torn out. Many just need the cracks sealed and potholes cut out and patched before water gets into the base. On the other hand, paying for repeated patches on a driveway whose base has failed is money thrown away. We look at the cause, not just the symptom.
Key facts
Problems we solve
Most calls we get start with a problem, not a project. Here are the issues New Jersey homeowners and property managers bring to us most often, what causes them, and how we fix them for good.
What you seeSlabs have cracked, lifted at the joints, or the surface is flaking off in patches.
Why it happensFreeze-thaw, road salt, tree roots, a weak base or concrete poured without air entrainment and proper control joints.
How we fix itIsolated slabs can be removed and repoured. If the whole driveway is scaling or heaving, replacing it with new concrete, asphalt or pavers on a properly built base is the lasting fix.
How to prevent itAvoid rock salt and ammonium-based de-icers, and seal concrete every few years.
What you seeWater ponds near the garage door, along the edges or in tire ruts long after the rain stops.
Why it happensThe driveway was graded flat or sloped the wrong way, or the base has settled in spots. Standing water seeps into cracks and accelerates every other kind of damage.
How we fix itSmall birdbaths can sometimes be corrected with an infrared or hot-mix leveling patch. Where the overall pitch is wrong, the surface has to come out so the base can be regraded, sometimes with a trench drain or dry well added.
How to prevent itPitch matters most at installation. Ask any contractor exactly where water will go before they pave.
What you seeSlabs have dropped at one end, creating a step or a puddle.
Why it happensBase washout, poor compaction or erosion under the slab.
How we fix itWe remove and repour on a compacted base, correcting drainage.
How to prevent itKeep water from running under slabs.
What you seeA lip has formed at the apron, the sidewalk or the garage slab.
Why it happensDifferent materials settle at different rates, and tree roots and frost lift edges.
How we fix itWe remove and rebuild the transition with a compacted base. At the street we can install a Belgian block or paver apron that ages well.
How to prevent itMake transitions part of the original design rather than an afterthought.
What you seeThe sides of the driveway are breaking off into the lawn, especially where cars drive close to the edge.
Why it happensAsphalt edges with no support underneath, or with base that stops short of the edge, crack under tire loads. Lawn sprinklers and runoff wash out the soil beside them.
How we fix itWe cut back to solid asphalt, extend and compact the base beyond the paved edge, repave, and often install Belgian block curbing to lock the edge in place.
How to prevent itBuild the base wider than the asphalt, tamp the edges at a bevel, and keep heavy vehicles off the outer foot of the driveway.
What you seeThe section where the driveway meets the road is cracked, broken or sunk.
Why it happensAprons take the heaviest loads (plows, trucks, turning) and are often thinner than they should be, with poor base at the curb line.
How we fix itWe remove the apron, compact a proper base, and repour thicker reinforced concrete, or install a Belgian block or paver apron that handles loads well.
How to prevent itKeep heavy trucks off the apron edge and make sure your town’s curb and sidewalk specs are followed.
If the base has failed, a new top layer alone won’t last. See can you pave over old asphalt?
Our process
Tom or a family member walks the property, measures, checks drainage and talks through materials and budget.
You get a clear, itemised quote covering excavation, base depth, materials, finish and clean-up. No pressure.
Our own crew excavates, builds the compacted base and installs the surface using quality materials.
We clean up, walk the finished job with you, explain aftercare and stand behind the work.
Hot-pour crack sealing, saw-cut and replace patches, edge repair, infrared/hot-mix patching and sealcoating.
Lifting and resetting sunken areas, replacing broken units, re-sanding joints with polymeric sand and restoring edge restraint. See interlocking pavers.
Removing and replacing damaged sections, fixing trip hazards and resealing. See concrete paving.
Plan with confidence
| Season | What to do |
|---|---|
| Spring | Check for heaving, new cracks and edge damage from plowing. Book projects early for the best start dates. |
| Summer | Ideal for installs, repairs and sealcoating. |
| Fall | Great paving weather. Finish repairs before freeze-up. |
| Winter | Plow carefully, use gentle de-icers, and plan next year's project. |
Reviews
★★★★★
Last month they did my backyard stoop, patio and walkway, and added a french drain to a sump pit in the yard. They did an amazing job! I highly recommend them for any paving and masonry work. Tom and crew are a pleasure to deal with.
— Bill P., Google review
★★★★★
Tom, his son, and their crew replaced our front walkway and steps and repaired a foundation wall on our home. They were here on time every morning and cleaned up before they left for the day. The quality of their work is outstanding.
— Kate L., Google review
★★★★★
I couldn't be happier with the work Old Irish Paving did on my driveway! The team was professional, efficient, and the quality of their work is outstanding. They made the whole process stress-free from start to finish.
— Angel G., Google review
FAQ
Repairs typically cost a fraction of replacement, but only make sense when the base is sound. We price both options after a free inspection so you can compare.
Yes. We lift the pavers, rebuild and compact the base underneath, and reset the same pavers so the repair blends in.
No. Sealcoat protects asphalt from sun, water and oil, but cracks should be filled first. We crack-fill and then sealcoat.
Late spring through early fall, when temperatures are warm enough for hot-mix patching and sealcoat to cure. Fixing cracks before winter prevents freeze-thaw damage.
Regrade the driveway so it pitches away from the garage, or install a trench drain across the driveway in front of the door, piped to a dry well or daylight.
You can, but it rarely looks or performs right next to asphalt or pavers, and many towns limit driveway width. A paved widening on a matching base is the lasting fix.
Well-built pavers and properly air-entrained concrete can last 30+ years, and asphalt 15–25 years. The base and drainage matter more than the surface.
Most recurring cracks come from water getting into the base, not from the asphalt itself. Seal cracks while they’re small, fix drainage, and if alligator cracking has spread, rebuild the base in that area.
No. Bagged cold patch is a temporary fix. A permanent repair is saw-cut, excavated, rebuilt with compacted stone and filled with hot-mix asphalt.
Free, no-obligation quote
Tell us about your driveway, patio, steps or masonry project. Tom or a member of the family will call you back promptly to book a free on-site visit and a written quote.
Prefer to talk? (908) 992-2345
