Key takeaways
- Paver driveways offer the highest curb appeal and easy, invisible repairs.
- They require a deeper base, often 8–12″, than patios or walkways.
- Herringbone patterns resist shifting under turning tires.
- In historic Clinton, brick-look pavers complement older homes.
A brick paver driveway is one of the most striking upgrades a Clinton home can get, whether it’s a historic house in town or a newer colonial in Clinton Township or Annandale.
Why choose pavers?
- Premium look with endless colors and patterns
- Excellent freeze-thaw performance
- Individual units can be lifted and replaced
- No sealcoating required (sealing is optional)
Brick vs. concrete pavers
Clay brick pavers offer rich, permanent color. Concrete pavers come in more shapes and textures, including tumbled “brick-look” styles. Both work well when installed properly.
What makes a paver driveway last
- Deep excavation for vehicle loads, often 8–12 inches of base depending on soil
- Geotextile over Hunterdon clay
- Base compacted in thin lifts
- Vehicle-rated pavers in a herringbone or other interlocking pattern
- Solid edge restraint
- Polymeric sand joints
Choosing a contractor
Ask about base depth, compaction method, edge restraint and pattern choice, and look at completed paver driveways. See interlocking pavers and driveway services in Clinton.
Troubleshooting: common problems and fixes
Here’s how we diagnose and fix the issues we see most often on projects like this.
Repairs on historic brick and stone in town
What you see: Crumbling joints, spalled brick and mismatched past repairs on older Clinton homes.
Why it happens: Old soft brick repaired with hard modern cement, plus decades of weather.
How we fix it: Repointing with compatible, softer mortar and replacing damaged units with salvaged or closely matched brick and stone.
How to prevent it: Avoid sealers and hard mortars on historic masonry.
Low, wet lots near the South Branch
What you see: Soggy lawns, puddling driveways and damp basements after heavy rain.
Why it happens: Low-lying ground and a high water table near the river.
How we fix it: Raise and pitch driveways and patios, add drainage stone and fabric, and improve basement drainage where needed.
How to prevent it: Keep gutters and downspouts flowing away from the house.
Weeds and ants in the joints
What you see: Grass and weeds sprouting between pavers, sand piles from ants, and joints washing out.
Why it happens: Plain sand in the joints, joints that were never fully filled, or polymeric sand that has worn away.
How we fix it: We clean out the joints, let them dry, sweep in fresh polymeric sand, compact and mist it so it hardens and locks the pavers.
How to prevent it: Keep joints topped up, sweep debris off, and consider sealing every few years.
Pavers spreading at the edges
What you see: Gaps opening up between pavers, borders drifting into the lawn, cut pieces loosening.
Why it happens: Missing or failed edge restraint. Without it, traffic pushes the paver field outward.
How we fix it: We reset the border on a compacted base and install a proper concrete or spiked edge restraint, then re-tighten and re-sand the field.
How to prevent it: Edge restraint is non-negotiable on every paver job. Ask how it will be installed.
White haze, stains and faded color
What you see: Chalky white film (efflorescence), oil spots, rust marks or dull color.
Why it happens: Efflorescence is natural salts migrating out of concrete pavers. Oil and rust come from cars, fertilizer and furniture, and UV fades color over time.
How we fix it: We clean with the correct product for each stain, then optionally apply a sealer to enhance color and make future cleaning easier.
How to prevent it: Wipe up oil quickly, keep fertilizer off pavers, and seal if you want a richer, easier-to-clean surface.
What affects the cost
- Paver type: standard concrete, premium textured, permeable, or clay brick
- Pattern complexity: herringbone, borders and inlays mean more cuts
- Base depth: patio vs. driveway loads and soil conditions
- Excavation and removal of existing surfaces
- Curves, steps and walls
- Access for equipment and material delivery
- Optional sealing and lighting
Mistakes to avoid
- Using a patio-depth base for a driveway
- Skipping edge restraint
- Leveling a bad base with extra bedding sand
- Using plain sand instead of polymeric sand
- Choosing a large-format paver for a driveway where it may crack under load
Seasonal care checklist
- Spring: Sweep, check for heaving and refill joints.
- Summer: Clean stains and seal if desired.
- Fall: Blow off leaves so they don’t stain, and check edges.
- Winter: Plow with a rubber edge. Rock salt is fine on most pavers, but avoid ammonium-based products.
Frequently asked questions
Do paver driveways sink?
Not when built on a deep, well-compacted base with edge restraint. Sinking is almost always a base problem.
Can a paver driveway be plowed?
Yes. Use a plow with a rubber or poly edge set slightly above the surface.
Why are my pavers sinking?
Usually a thin or poorly compacted base, or water undermining it. The fix is to lift the pavers, rebuild the base in compacted lifts and reset them.
How do I stop weeds between pavers?
Clean the joints and refill with polymeric sand, which hardens when misted. Keep joints topped up and swept.
Can old pavers be reused?
Usually, yes. Sound pavers are lifted, cleaned and reset on the rebuilt base.
Planning a project? Old Irish Paving & Masonry is a family-owned, licensed and insured New Jersey contractor with 30+ years of experience. Call (908) 992-2345 or request a free estimate.